Monday, September 22, 2014

Ein, Zwei, Tri... PROST!!!



After Nueschwanstien, we traveled north for about two hours more in the car.  Following tractor trailers again through switchbacks in the Alps.  Then all the sudden we hit the Autobahn again… WOOHOOO!  I must have hit 170 K/Hr and again, station wagons are just blowing by us.  It was fun, but a little scary at times.  But then we get to what would be the equivalent of the beltway around Munich, and we come to a screeching halt.  The traffic was something that we would see at home on 405.  It was a mess and we had to make it to the airport to turn in the rental car.  

We manage to make it there, and there are gas stations on the way, unlike what we experienced in Dublin.  So we turn in the car and make our way into the airport to attempt to figure out the train situation to get us back into the city center where we were staying.  We were having trouble figuring out exactly where we needed to get to, so we asked, and we were on the S-Bahn one more time. 
Once we reached the city center, we were too busy looking at pictures, etc and we missed our stop.  SO we hopped off and turned around to get the next train going back the other way.  We made it out of the train station and to our apartment, where we met our next Airbnb host, Gosia.  She was super nice, considering we were about 2 hours late.  She gave us the run down of what we needed to know and then she was off.  I imagine that most local Munichers rent out their apartments to the drunken hoards descending on the city for Oktoberfest and then get the hell out of town.  It certainly seemed that’s what she was doing.  She did leave us with quite a recommendation for dinner though, so we walked down the street and went to this beautiful enormous beer garden for dinner.  We went in to find one open table in the whole place so we sat down.  WHAM!!!  A huge chestnut dropped right onto our table and we found out why this was the only open table.  Soon it starts to rain and they put up the tent, thank God because we can hear the chestnuts bouncing off the tent.  They would have left quite a mark.  

Again, German food did not disappoint.  And our waitress loved us so much that she brought us shots of Schnapps at the end of dinner for dessert, and not the fruity flavored schnapps, the real stuff.  I guess she was tickled to meet some folks who have been to her dream vacation destination, Hawaii.  Moni, our waitress, said that this was her last day at the restaurant, since she was leaving for a while to work a beer tent at Old Oktoberfest.  I guess that’s the more traditional, less touristy, more laid back version of what everyone was in town for.  So she told us where to meet her, and we said we might just stop by to see her again.  

In the morning we made our way into the city center, Marienplatz, to go on another one of the new berlin tours.  These things really are fantastic, so if you end up in a city where they have them, just do it.  They walk you around for about 3 hours showing you different parts of the city.  Our guide this time was a Kiwi that moved to Munich for a girl.  He proceeded to show us around town and tell us stories about the various places.  It turns out there is quite a bit of history here, a lot of which included beer, but some of it was pretty interesting.  I didn’t realize that the Nazi party started in Munich, and the first meeting of the German Workers Party actually met in the Hofbrauhaus.  Crazy, we thought we were away from all that stuff. 

Afterwards, we went back to the apartment so that we could mail home so of the souvenirs and other trinkets we’ve picked up along the way.  I will say this, for all the advances that Europe has over the US, they sure don’t like to use credit cards.  Everything everywhere you go has to be cash.  And you would think if that was the case, there would be ATM’s everywhere.  Well, no.  So to mail our box home, I had to run 6 blocks to the ATM and back because they didn’t take Visa.  It worked out fine, but it was sure frustrating since we never carry cash at home. 

After that mess, we went back downtown to find the Hofbrauhaus to get dinner.  What a zoo.  Umpah music playing everywhere.  People are all dressed up in their lederhosen and everyone everywhere is drinking huge beers.  For those of you that have never been to Oktoberfest, it is not for the shy.  You have to find a seat at a table where everyone is already sitting.  You just walk up and say, are these taken and sit with some folks and get to talking with them.  So after walking around a bit, we found some seats at a table with a German couple, who was here for their first Oktoberfest as well. 
We ate and left.  To try and walk around, but it was pouring rain and we had a big day coming up, so we went home for an early night.  

The next morning, we’re up at 8 am.  Getting dressed.  I had found some Lederhosen boardshorts, so I had those on.  Walking through our area of town, where there weren’t many tourists brought me many strange looks, but as we got closer to the epicenter, I started to feel more comfortable and fit it better.  More and more people just start piling on the trains as we get closer and closer to the festival. 

Pop off the train and we start walking in to the main area, mind you it’s about 9:30 in the morning and there are lines everywhere waiting to get into the beer tents.  And by tent I mean enormous open building that seats like 10,000 people at picnic tables inside.  We decided to wait in line at the Augustiner tent, and we made it in, only to see the place already packed.  So we wandered around, again looking for open seats.  Denied, denied, denied until we asked the one group, and I don’t know if we didn’t understand each other, but one of them shook their head and the other stood up to let us into the middle of the table.  So we were in, we found a seat, and now the fun starts right?  Nope, it’s like 10 am.  On the first day, they don’t serve until noon.  So, the waiting game begins.  There are Aussies on our right, and Germans on our left.  And we all get to talking.  But we’re just passing time, so I went up to the gift shop and bought a deck of cards.  Get back to we can start playing a game, open the deck and there are only 36 cards?!!?  Apparently it’s a deck for some Bavarian game that only uses 6-Ace.  Say what?  Oh well, we started teaching the Aussies to play Blitz when the drums started.  In marched the parade, full with marching band and the whole deal.  Guys holding the signs of the brewery whose tent we were in, etc.  Then they start yelling something in German and a guy holds a mallet high in the air, then Wham! In goes the tap into the first keg and the whole place erupts in cheering and the umpah band starts playing. 

Next we see our barmaid come to our table, with like 10 liters of beer in her arms, slams them down on the table and they get passed down…. PROST!!!!!  It begins.  The Germans next to us are telling us that we need to try the chicken, and we have to try and drink the liter of beer with no hands.  The one Aussie kid next to us stands up on the table and pounds his full liter.  And mind you this is within the first hour.  We got to be pretty friendly with the German guys next to us.  Andi as it turns out spent a lot of time near LA since his father was working in Ventura.  Of course as the beer continued to flow we got more and more friendly.  Everyone is dancing on the tables, and we’re learning German songs and their teaching us German words to say.  Everyone is having a blast.  Alas, the Germans decided they wanted to go to another place where more locals go, so they took off.  They told us that we needed to walk around the whole fair grounds, and ride the ferris wheel and get some good German snacks.  So after about 20 minutes we left the tent to walk around.  How these things happen I don’t know, but we’re walking down the path only to find our buddy Andi talking up some girl.  So we yell at him, and he grabs us and takes us into the tent where all of our new friends were from the huge tent earlier.  Now this was where it got even more interesting.  We went in and they had a band playing, but it wasn’t umpah music, this was like American music from like 15 years ago.  And it was a ton of fun, drinking gin and tonics was a welcome change to the 5 or so liters of beer that we had earlier.  So, our new German friends were teaching us some of the German pop songs the cover band was playing.  But, the funniest thing I think I saw all night, was a whole tent full of Germans, in lederhosen and dirndls doing the Macarena.  And I don’t mean just doing it, they went nuts cheering and dancing.  It was really pretty funny.   I can’t remember the last time I heard that song, let alone did the dance, with everyone else in the entire bar. 

Finally it came time for us to head out.  We said good bye to our new friends, and made sure that they knew they had a place to stay when the visit LA again.  And Andi gave Sarah his hat.  Sarah tells me it’s hat karma, because I left my Barancles hat with John in Edinburgh as a gift.  I don’t know about that, but it was a super friendly gesture and I really do hope that we see them again. 

Speaking of Edinburgh, the first night we were in Munich was the night of the referendum voting in Scotland.  And after all the hullabaloo Scotland decided they were better off being part of the UK after all.  It sure was fun to follow the drama though. 

We cleaned up the apartment, and headed to the train station.  I was pretty hung over, Sarah I think fared better than  I did.   We get in our train cabin, and we’re sharing it with another couple from the US who was in town for the festival and is now heading to Venice.  We’re on our way to Verona, and short stop before Venice, so we can see what’s in store there.  I guess it’s where Romeo and Juliet is set.  But, we traded stories from our time in Munich, and how much fun we had.  We were showing them part of our trip, and talking about all the things we’ve done. 

I’m not quite sure if I didn’t know what to expect, or what, but Germany really blew me away.  We had so much fun there, in both Berlin and Munich.  It’s an amazing place, and my favorite so far.  Oktoberfest was a blast, and definitely something to check off the bucket list.  I don’t know that I need to go back to do it again right away, my body couldn’t handle much more.  But as for Berlin and Munich and just Germany in general, I certainly hope this isn’t the last time we are here.  We both can’t wait to return.  What a fantastic place!! 

Sunday, September 21, 2014

Germany: "Today was a fairytale"

Today began as a fairytale.  We left Innsbruck (which we definitely didn't get nearly enough time in) and made our way to Schloss Neuschwanstein (aka New Swanstone Castle).  This castle was built for crazy King Ludwig II, just because he wanted a medieval castle.  Apparently King Ludwig II was not particularly keen on being around people, so he wanted a castle built for him away from the city.  He despised people so much that even his servants had to wear bags on their heads so he would not have to look at their faces. Oh and btw, its this castle that the Sleeping Beauty castle was modeled after.   Quite a stunning view tucked in the foothills of the bavarian alps. 
View from St Mary's Bridge.  It was quite spectacular siting in the shadows of this beautiful castle. 
Pepe found a lizard door handle and a crazy eyed friend. 
So you're not supposed to take pictures once inside... I snuck this one. Shhh! Don't tell...
There is also another castle right next door called Schloss Hohenschwangau which we could see from the windows of the swan castle.


 After the castle, we made the trek to Munich.  Another great city and another gute farht!!
One of the most famous sights,  the Glockenspiel is an intricate display of history and culture.  Everyday at 11am it chimes portraying scenes from the cities past.  The top part of shows the marriage of Duke Wilhelm V to Renata of Lorianne with a joust to honor the couple.  The bottom part shows coopers dancing to signify perseverance and loyalty to authority, becoming popular during the years of the plague. At the end of the chiming, which lasted about 15 minutes, there's a small gold bird named Fritz at the top, who ever so softly chirps.  I literally almost missed it.




Here's the side of St. Peter's Church.  Cool story about this church is that there is a cannon ball still stuck in the walls from the wall.  See it on the right side of the window? Well, its not actually the real cannon ball that once was there.  We were told that during the war, when many of the cities in Germany were getting demolished, the city of Munich sent artists out into the streets to draw and sketch the buildings exactly how they were.  So when the city was destroyed, they had documentation to rebuild just as it was.  One of the artists happened to catch the cannon ball in a picture, thus it still exists in the new (old) building 



Of course we made a stop at the famous Haufbrãuhaus. 
Here's a picture from one of the ceremonial halls, also where the first meeting of the Nazis was held (at that time they were called the German Workers Party).  

Pepe had to get a picture with Juliet... Munich is the sister city to Verona which we will be in a couple days so he'll have to get a picture with the other statue as well.  Its supposed to be good luck for guys to rub her breast, while women give her flowers in order to be blessed with a better love life.  

Here is the memorial to those who chose their own way when Hitler was attempting to take control of Munich.  Hitler had a statue made to commemorate the death of some Nazi sympathizers and forced passerby-ers to salute the statue.  Many people began taking alternative routes around the statue to not have to salute it. Unfortunately, the Nazi's caught on to this behavior and began shipping people who took this route off to Dachau.  The gold bricks are in honor of those who silently protested the Nazis.  

We also saw the Devil's Church or Frauenkirche which holds some interesting history. I loved the tall stained glass windows.



Ray and Pepe standing in the devil's footstep.  From here all of the windows are blocked by big pillars, which is why (as the story goes) the devil didn't destroy the church when he happened upon it. 



Of course later that day we stumbled back to Haufbrãu for dinner and a liter.  


The following day was a big day...Oktoberfest 2014!!! Todays the day.  We get up early.  Ray puts on his lederhosen board shorts and we head to the beer tents.  Everyone had told us that we had to get there in the wee hours of the morning in order to get into a tent.  We randomly choose the Augustiner-Brãu tent and jump into the line.  We really only waited in line for 15 minutes or so before they started letting people in.  Pepe spotted some good looking wieners while waiting in line.  Once inside the tent, the place was already nuts.  The tables were pretty much full and people are still coming into the tents by the hundreds.  Alright, looks like we're just gonna have to hope some group will be nice enough to let us sit with them.  We ask one group... no... ask another... nope... just keep asking around, but nobody lets us sit.  Finally, we see some space in the middle of a table, we ask the people sitting on the outside.  Oddly enough, they initially said no but then a few of the girls stand up  as if to let us in.  We don't hesitate and slide right in.  



We end up sitting between a group of locals on one side and a group of Australians on the other.  Keep in mind at this point its about 9:30am... The first keg does not get tapped until noon.  That was a whole lot of time to sit and stare at one another.  We started chatting with the people around us and just taking in the atmosphere.  One word to describe Oktoberfest: Insanity!! Just in our tent there were 8,700 people plus another 3,000 outside in the beer garden. All in all, there were another 15-20 tents, thats a whole lot of people.  Oh and by tent, I mean massive building, not like a tent you go camping in. 


At about 10 minutes to noon, the band makes it way into the tent, marching around the masses of people.  Everyone starts standing on the tables and cheering.  Then comes the moment we had been waiting for, the tapping of the first keg.  After waiting for hours, I must admit my first sip of beer was fantastic.  Apparently, Augustiner is known to be the better of the beer in Munich and they also made a special brew specifically for Oktoberfest (which is stronger!).  Also saw this gem.  I couldn't quite decide whether it is real or just stuck on.  Thoughts?


The next few hours seem to fly by.  We have an absolute blast with all the people at our table.  


Pepe got a lot of love too.

It was quite warm in the tents too.  This is what Ray thinks of that...

We finally decide to leave the tent after dark and walk to get a bite to eat.  Before we even manage to find food, we run into the Germans we had been sitting with and then take us to a local club.  We continue to drink and dance the night away.  Yep totally busted out the Macarena in Munich! 

Werfen to Innsbruck: "Can you take me higher?"

If there is one thing that I have learned about Austria thus far is that heights are a plenty! Every time I feel like I am looking up at the highest peak, later I end up peering down from above that and barely being able to see what I used to think was so big.  Yesterday's and now today’s adventure definitely proved this point. We left our place this morning with our sights set on Eisriesenwelt aka “World of the Ice Giants”.  We drive for about 5 five minutes before seeing a sign pointing us towards the ice caves saying 5km.  I expected to drive straight on the road we were on for that distance… but not long after we make the turn, we immediately start going up the mountain.  We drive up a good bit, park, hike up to the main entrance.  What a view already! 



If you look right at the top of the mountain (well what looks like the top) you’ll see a little white building.  We first had to hike about 20 minutes up to catch a cable car that took us to that building. 




Remember the castle that was nestled high up on a hill overlooking the place we stayed last night… here it is from where we were standing.  



The ride up the cable car was slightly frightening, being that you literally go straight up the mountain in a matter of minutes.  Then we had to hike up even further to the foot of the cave. Pepe was a little scared.









We bundle up to head inside the cave which temps usually fall just around below freezing.  I got my hood on, I’ve folded my sleeves around my fingers and tucked in my thumbs and place my hands in my jacket pockets as well.  I hope I have on enough layers.  


They open the door to the cave and suddenly we find ourselves in the middle of a wind tunnel, the temperature drops drastically and all of the lamp lights blow out.  Alright, we’re in for it.  The guide comes by to light the lamps and we hike up 700 steps to the top of the cave.  Its cold, super dark with steep steps and I keep getting pelted in the head by large water drops… regardless, I am just in awe of my surroundings.  There’s huge ice towers, one that Ray thought looked like pac man, another that looked like a huge mammoth.  Layers upon layers of ice.  The guide mentioned that some of the ice had been tested and found to be 5,000 years old.  So crazy! This is the largest ice cave in the world, about 42km long.  

Unfortunately, they do not allow photography once inside the caves, but I’ve added some pictures from the web just so you get an idea of what we saw.


From the biggest ice cave in the world, we head to the biggest waterfall in Europe, Krimml Falls, standing at 380m tall. It was almost hard to see the entire waterfall due to its length.  Here’s just a small portion of it.




 
Here's a better look of the falls from a lookout point across the way.
Pepe and the goat.

We spent the night in the cute town of Innsbruck.  We had a fantastic dinner at the Ottoburg restaurant which has been open since 1476. Pepe and I loved that they had fur blankets on every chair. 

  

Here is the city lit up at night...


And of course the Goldenes Dachl (Golden Roof) the city's most famous symbol.