Friday, September 19, 2014

KV to Prague to Telč: "Good King Wenceslas-er-slas, slas-er-slaus-er-slas-er"


The next morning we plan to walk around KV a little more, but that was cut short due to the pouring rain. 


 We do a quick lap around the town and make a pit stop into The Grand Hotel Pupp (pronounced poop)!  Ray and I have had many laughs about that place.  


We then jump in the car before we get completely drenched and head to Prague.  It pretty much rains the entire drive and is then dumping on us by the time we get to town.  Somehow our airbnb host finds us amidst all the cars, people and rain and directs us where to go.  We grab a cup of coffee with him or a beer if you are Ray as he draws out on the map every place we need to try.  “Go here for beer cheese… this is a good spot for dinner… here is where they have a farmer’s market on Saturday mornings… I wouldn't go here!” Things of that nature.   At this point it is close to 5pm-ish and being that we hadn't eaten since 9am, I start to become slight hangary.  I’m loving all the information that Ondrej is giving us, but honestly I can’t even think straight because I am so hungry.  We finally head out on our own, grab a quick bite to eat (thankfully) and then hit the streets.  We of course head straight to Old Town Square where the astronomical clocks lives.  


We then make our way to Charles Bridge. 


Pepe encountered some interesting parking lot men.


After walking for a little, we make our way to the beer cheese place Ondrej told us about… Before leaving on our trip, we had also watched an episode of Three Sheets where Zane the host goes to Prague.  He finds out that if you eat beer cheese before I night of drinking, you can drink more than usual.  We figured we had to give it a try.  Well the recommended place was unfortunately closed.  We come across another place called Lokal and stop for a drink.  Alas, they also have beer cheese on the menu. We ordered ourselves some, as well as some mixed sausages to share.  All I have to say is that I was pretty underwhelmed by the beer cheese… I love beer and I love cheese, but this was very interesting to say the least.  Kinda lumpy (which I was ok with) but then it was screaming with onions/leeks, leaving a not so pleasant taste in my mouth.  Glad I tried it, but do not think I need to order it again.  The sausages we excellent though.  They were served with whipped horseradish sauce and a mild mustard.  Think I may need to figure out how to make whipped horseradish when I get home… along with brown bread! After dinner, we walked right by a lady making ring donuts (the name we gave them).


Now this was the best thing I had had all day! Pepe liked it too.

The walk back across Charles Bridge was a brilliant sight, plus seeing all the buildings lit up in the night sky was really cool to see too.  I could have done without all the people though.  There were people every which way you looked.  






The next morning we walked down the the farmers market right along the river (which Ondrej had recommended).  


It was delightful! Lots of fresh fruits and veggies, cheese, meats, pastries, fish, coffee/tea, and fresh juices. I wanted one of everything, but settled for a fresh made crepe with goat cheese, sun dried tomatoes and spinach, with some just picked raspberries on the side.  Ray, of course, had his sights on a big piece of chocolate filled pastry.  I just loved walking around this place! If anyone ever happens to be in Prague on a Saturday, you must check out this market. 


We then head back to Old Town Square for another walking tour.  This time our guide was rather dramatic. He was quite demonstrative as he reenacted the history of the city throughout the entire tour. We saw the crosses on the ground, watch your step.

The Powder Tower which used to hold all the gunpowder.


He also preached a lot about Franz Kaftka.


Here’s Pepe with the Old New Synogauge. 

For dinner, we head down along the water to another of Ondrej's recommendations Podolka.  It was very much not a tourist spot and the food and drinks were fantastic. Ray and I had a great time reminiscing about the trip so far.  

The next morning, Ray and I leave Prague, but not without an interesting trek to find our car first.  I should start by saying that when we first arrived in Prague, there wasn’t parking at the place we were staying so Ondrej showed us a place to park, near his other flat outside of the city.  He then drove us back to where we were staying.  At the time I thought, “Maybe I should drop a pin where the car is so we can find it… Nah, it won’t be hard to find, it won’t be an issue”.  Ha, wrong was I ever. Whoever thinks finding a rental car in the middle of an unfamiliar city is easy, well its not.  We walked around in the rain for almost 2 hours before finding it.  At one point, I had to hide out in a small entrance way with all the stuff to keep it from getting drenched while Ray ran around trying to find it.  I had never been so happy to see a rental car before. 
A slightly later start than anticipated, but we eventually got on our way to Sedlec Ossuary in Kutná Hora.  From the outside it looks like any small church and cemetery.  It was getting a face lift which made it even less spectacular, from the outside that is.  But once we walked in, it was astounding! The entire inside decor was human bones, real human bones from people who had been buried there, most during the period of the Black Plague. It is estimated to contain the skeletons of between 40,000-70,000 people.  












Bones, bones, and more bones. They were everywhere, some purposefully piled high and others used to form designs. 
Apparently the chandelier contains at least one of every bone in the human body... That's so crazy!! 


Pepe had to get some shots with mr skeleton




Oddly enough, I got a kick out of trying to identify which bones were being used: femur, humerus, mandible, vertebra, clavicle, pelvis, teeth, etc.  Some of the designs were so intricate that I really had to look closely to be able to tell.

After spending a lot of time in some big cities, Ray and I make our way to small town in southern Czech called Telč.  Though I had never heard of this town, apparently it is an UNESCO recognized place.  I am so glad we stopped here.  This town looks straight out of a movie set.






 There were white benches throughout the middle of the street. Pepe stopped for a minute.


We putted around the town, coming across some pretty cool sights.
 





































Ray and I enjoyed a quiet night in a small picturesque town (even though he kept mentioning that he thinks our hotel is haunted).    

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