Italy: My, my, my, my Verona

The next morning we leave Munich and Germany and make our way to Verona, Italy, the setting of "Romeo & Juliet" and another UNESCO world heritage site.  After a nice 6 hour train ride in our own little compartment shared with a nice couple from Connecticut, we finally arrived in this beautiful little town.  Our walk from the train station to our hotel was spectacular.  What a cool city.

We had dinner at  a small joint called La Greppia, which luckily we got there early enough, since by the time we were done it was packed.  Our first taste of real Italian food was Delizioso!.  Yummy gnocchi and ravioli and then veal escalope, in which I found a heart.  The wine was fantastic too!.  

 We then walked around the town, passing right by the casa de Guiletta.  It wasn't until later when we were actually looking for it that we realized it we had already gone by it.  It didn't help that it was fenced off for the night.  Here it is through the fence.  Spectacular right?

The next morning we had a little time to spare so we walked around the city some more.  

 Here are some ancient ruins in the middle of one of the main streets. It was nuts to be walking through a city and then all of the sudden a portion of the road is fenced off and beneath it is exposed ruins.  

All around the city we saw these guys... I have no idea what the significance of it is.  I've looked and looked to find out what it means but to no avail.  Anyone know?

We went back to Juliet's house and this time we were able to walk inside the courtyard.  Pepe was quite fond of her balcony.  

Ray could not resist fondling Juliet's breast. 

And here is the ancient Roman arena, another popular site to see.  I had no idea there was one in Verona.  It was built in the first century AD and once held 30, 000 people during the games. Today it houses the Verona Opera, as well as the pop artists that come through here... Too bad we missed Justin Bieber.  

Just a couple of asses...

After Verona, we jumped back on the train to Venice.  For some reason, things just tend to take longer to get to than we originally plan.  So alas, we stumble into Venice much later than anticipated.  We figure that Venice is not that big and so we decide to walk with our bags, rather than take the water taxi.  Well we quickly came to learn that Venice, although famous for its canals, really should mean labyrinth.  Walking with our bags over cobblestone, through a maze of narrow hallways, that all started to look the same, especially when not really knowing where we were going and the maps did not help us in the least, was no easy task.  Not to mention that there were people every which way.  We'd turn left than over a canal, than right... oops! Dead end, turn around turn left, over another canal  turn right than straight... this continued until we came across a small paper, handwritten sign directing us right towards our hotel.  Even with the sign, we still couldn't manage to find it.  Luckily, another  hotel was able to point us in the right direction.  Great! We made it.  Check in and then the lady walks us out the front door, across a courtyard, through a hallway, across another courtyard, up 3 flights of stairs and finally to our room.  Woah! I have no idea how we managed that one.  By this time, we are starving so we try our luck at finding a restaurant.  The first place we come to is booked, the next place can't sit us for another couple of hours.  So we found the first place with spaghetti ice cream and parked ourselves at a table (Don't tell Adam and Maya).  We share a pizza and some pasta, nothing to write home about but it worked for us at that moment.  Then all of the sudden, dark clouds covered the sky.  Very ominous if you ask me.  About 20 minutes later, the sky opened up and pouring rain began to fall.  Seconds later, little white balls bounced into the restaurant.  Hail? Could this really be? Nobody had ever mentioned hail to me when discussing Venice.  But sure enough, it was.  People started darting off the street and the Rialto Bridge, seeking shelter under any store awning or restaurant.  It was crazy!! 

We order another bottle of wine and of course spaghetti ice cream (which was pretty good I might add, even though it was slightly melted) and decide to wait out the storm.  A bit later and there's a break in the rain.  We think we can surely make it home... Ummm, not quite.  maybe 15 minutes later, the sky opens up again and the hail begins, this time bigger and harder than before.  We jump under an awning of a store and watch for a few minutes.  Soon enough the hail is bouncing up off the ground, as well as ricochetting off the buildings and hitting us all over, to the point where it was quite  injurious.  I decide to make the most of this moment and do some shopping: a shot glass, some postcards, a new pair of earrings... why not?  Ray was busy taking pictures of the madness.  After close to 30 minutes and no subsiding, we jump across the way for some more wine.  Finally, an hour later, the rain lightens up enough for us to make it back to our hotel (without being entirely drenched).  

 

 After the hail madness, the next day is absolutely great weather.  We make our way to Piazza St Marco and also catch a glimpse of the picturesque gondolas.  

 

 

We are also determined to check out some recommendations from our friends Maya and Adam who are moving here in a month to start a food tour.  What a great idea, especially in Venice! So who better to point us in the right direction of where to eat than them.  If anyone is looking to go to Venice in the next few months or is just curious about their moving experience, check out Venice Bites Food Tours on Facebook.  They have a blog about moving from California to Venice which is really a quite interesting read.  Not to mention, that they guided us to some fantastic Venice meals.  We first end up at Gia Schiavi, mostly because it was the easiest to find.  Its a small, hole in the wall wine bar with a case full of delicious cichetti (somewhat like tapas).  You basically point to what you want to eat, grab a glass of wine and enjoy.  They had little crustinis topped with octopus, pesto & sundried tomato, cod, smoked herring, brie, salmon, truffle/shrimp/artichoke, pumpkin & marcaspone, some wrapped in bologna, and then just chunks of cheese and salami.  It was delicious!!  

After a snack, we continued our journey through Venice, making stops along the way at some beautiful canals, hallways and bridges. 

  

 There was even hail still on the streets from the night before.  Pepe got some cold feet...

I loved seeing all the laundry hanging out to dry... and some rubber rain boots from last night's storm.

As I have said before, Ray has a very good sense of direction.  I always thought I did, but during this trip, he has definitely surpassed my ability to find my way.  Oddly enough, Venice stumped us both.  This is what we spent most of our time doing while here... Staring blankly at a map that doesn't even help us in the least. 

 

After the great first food recommendation, we are determined to find one of the other restaurants that Maya and Adam had told us to go to.  They mention that they are not easy to find and we know that this is going to be a challenge.  We also learned from last night's fiasco, that reservations would need to be made early if we had any hope in order to get a table.  So its now about 2pm and we set out on our way to find Trattoria Antiche Carampagne.  With maps being of little assistance, we turn to the longwinded directions given on their website... with many wrong turns, we finally get to it.  The first reservation is at 9:30pm.  We take it! We then head to La Zucca.  Again, very difficult to find, not to mention that their are 2 streets in close proximity with the exact same name.  We find that one and they have reservations available at 7:30pm.  That sounds better so we put our names in.  We originally decided to cancel the other place, but during our walk their, we realize why not keep both? We can just eat small plates at each so that way we can try them both, brilliant idea.  

We then of course, had to experience an official gondola ride.  I feel like I have said this before, but when in Rome... We grab a bottle of wine and jump in the boat. 

 Casablanca's balacony...

Ray enjoying his wine and the sights...

After our gondola ride we partook in our double dinner for the evening.  Both were very good, and I'm so glad we tried both places.  I only took one picture of both of our dinners, but of course it was of the razor clams.   I never met a razor clam I didn't like...

 Venice at night...

The next morning we jump on a "bus" and by bus, I mean boat and head to the train station.  This ride was really cool.  It took us straight up the Grande Canal with many fantastic sights to see.  Initially, I thought Venice was way too touristy and quite congested. Over the time spent there, I grew to appreciate the differentness of the city and the beauty within it.  Its quite majestical and unlike anywhere I have been thus far.  It is a captivating city and one that is easy to lose yourself in.  I completely understand why Adam and Maya our moving here, although I am quite interested in the technicalities of actually getting their stuff here. Not so much the packing and putting it on a boat, but more like once it gets to Venice.  How are they going to get their huge pieces of furniture through the tiny, twisted streets.  I mean, I could barely maneuver a carry one suitcase.  I’m sure they’ll have some great stories to tell. 

 Cute dog I saw posing along the way.